HELP!!!!!!

I really need some help.  I am attempting to draft a pattern for jeans and am having some fitting issues that I don’t know how to fix.  Now I am trusting that you all are not going to be to annoyed about all these pictures of my rear, it isn’t a body part I ever thought I would be posting pictures of on the internet, but darnit I am sick and tired of jeans not fitting in the back so I am driven to these drastic measures.  My constant problem is that I find jeans that fit in the front and look good but I get lots of wrinkling under my rear in the back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These jeans cost me 70 dollars!  I bought them before I did a lot of sewing and thought they were the best I could do.  Now I feel like I can do better.  Here is the muslin.

As you can see in the picture on the right I put a fold right under the left cheek and it made it better.

The pattern had me slash and spread the area in blue above, did I spread it too much?  Any advice is appreciated and needed.

Advertisements
This entry was posted in bottoms. Bookmark the permalink.

4 Responses to HELP!!!!!!

  1. Tanit-Isis says:

    Hmm, here’s my thoughts (as no kind of fitting expert)

    1) you’re going to get some wrinkling below the rear in jeans. that’s inevitable. I actually think your top pair looks about right in this regard, although the back-thigh fit isn’t as great. (Caveat: you could probably get around some of this by adding butt-curve to the extra seam in the skinny cargoes, but you still need a bit of extra length in this region so you can sit down)

    2) what kind of a fit are you going for? To me it looks like these may be a bit snug around the hips and then too loose in the back thigh. I would be inclined to add a bit more to the outseam at the hip, deepening the dart above the butt if you need to, and then narrow the thigh of the pattern. By all means incorporate that tuck if it helps.

    3) $70 for a good pair of storebought jeans is pretty cheap to me!… which explains why I like making my own so much. 😉

    I have no insight at all if you need to start messing with you crotch curve… get thee to a fitting book! 😉

    Also check the %stretch of your muslin fabric vs. your RTW jeans… this may give you some insight into why they fit differently. Or not. 😉

  2. Sunni (The cupcake goddess) had a pants sew-along recently, and while I didn’t participate it looked like it had some good fitting tips. I’d check that out if you don’t have any fitting books!

  3. melissa says:

    I had saggy wrinkles under the butt in some pants I made last year and doing the fish-eye dart (so maybe you were a little overzealous with the slash and spread?) fixed that for me. But the fit in the back otherwise looks great. It’s hard to fit jeans, but once you get it right you’ll never buy another pair again!

  4. Zena says:

    I just found your blog after seeing the link over on Tanit-Isis’s, so forgive a stranger for commenting on photos of your bottom 🙂

    It looks like you have more fullness at the lower bottom-upper thigh. I do too, which is why the pattern of wrinkles looks familiar.

    I’d suggest adding some width in this area – you could add to the hip side, or the inseam (below the crotch curve), or both, tapering to nothing at the knee or above.

    I can’t see the waistband in your photos, but one of the problems I have is that there isn’t enough vertical coverage in the back, so my pants tend to ride a little low at the back waist. If you have this issue, you may want to angle your waistline up from side to CB.

    Best of luck!

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s